Travel Back to the Edo Period! A Sightseeing Guide to the Nakasendo Trail

Travel Back to the Edo Period! A Sightseeing Guide to the Nakasendo Trail

Last update :
Written by :  GOOD LUCK TRIP

The Nakasendo Trail was one of the Five Routes established during the Edo period (1603–1868).
Stretching Approx. 530 km, this rugged road was lined with 69 post towns and played an important role in the development of transportation and culture. Their historic charm has been carefully preserved to this day.
This article introduces the overview and history of the Nakasendo, with a focus on recommended post towns.
Whether you are planning a trip along the Nakasendo or are simply curious about it, this guide highlights the key points so you can fully appreciate its appeal.

What is the Nakasendo Like?

The Nakasendo was one of the Five Routes established during the Edo period, linking Edo (present-day Tokyo) and Kyoto.
Compared with the other routes, one of its defining features is that it passes through mountainous areas with many steep mountain paths and valleys.
Because of this, it is blessed with rich nature and offers scenic spots and beautiful seasonal views throughout the year.
Along its Approx. 530 km route are the "Nakasendo Rokujukyutsugi," a collective name for its 69 post towns, which supported travelers as an important transportation route and hub alongside the Tokaido.
Even today, the Nakasendo is home to historic post towns that strongly retain the atmosphere of the Edo period.
Its great length also means each post town has its own character, making it possible to enjoy local cuisine and culture along the way.
As you walk past historic sites and famous landmarks, through wooden architecture and stone-paved streets, you will likely feel the travel atmosphere of that era.

Map of the 69 post towns of the Nakasendo
Map of the 69 post towns of the Nakasendo

History of the Nakasendo

The Nakasendo was developed by the Edo shogunate from 1602 over time, together with the other Five Routes.
In 1716, following the recommendation of scholar Arai Hakuseki, the route’s name was unified as "Nakasendo" and became established.
Before that, it had been known by various names depending on the region, including "Tosando," "Kiso Kaido," "Nakasanro," and "Nakasendo" written with different characters.
Because it passed through mountainous areas, the Nakasendo had the advantage of avoiding floods and the dangers of sea travel, and it played an important role as a key transportation route during the Edo period.
Merchants, travelers, and even daimyo processions frequently passed along it, greatly contributing to the development of local economies.
In the Meiji period (1868–1912), however, traffic on the Nakasendo declined as railways and new roads were developed.
Its historical value was reassessed in modern times, and today there are still many spots along the Nakasendo where traces of Edo-period history remain, drawing attention as sightseeing destinations.

Post towns on the Nakasendo where you can feel as if you have traveled back in time
Post towns on the Nakasendo where you can feel as if you have traveled back in time

Step Into the Atmosphere of the Edo Period in Kisoji! 3 Popular Post Towns on the Nakasendo

Among the 69 post towns of the Nakasendo, here are three carefully selected towns that have become especially popular sightseeing spots.
All of them are located in the area known as Kisoji, which passes through the Kiso region centered mainly in southern Nagano Prefecture.
This area is home to 11 post towns where the atmosphere of the Edo period still remains, and the historic townscape has been preserved across the region as a whole.
If you are interested in the Nakasendo or Kisoji, start by visiting the post towns introduced below.

1. Magome-juku

Magome-juku is the 43rd post town on the Nakasendo, located in Nakatsugawa City, Gifu Prefecture.
The entire town is steeped in the atmosphere of the Edo period, making you feel as if you have stepped back in time.
Its biggest highlight is the stone-paved street that runs along the slope.
On both sides of the uphill road, which stretches for over 600 m, are old wooden buildings as well as traditional-style cafes, restaurants, and souvenir shops, making it perfect for strolling and sampling local food.
Traditional events such as the "Nakasendo Magome-juku Festival" and the "Magome Kisoji Ice and Snow Lantern Festival" are held throughout the year, offering another great way to experience local culture.
It is also known as the birthplace of novelist Shimazaki Toson and as a place connected to his memorial museum and his work Before the Dawn.
The main highlights and access information are summarized in the table below.

Popular Spots
Magome Wakihonjin Museum, Toson Memorial Museum, Masugata, water wheel hut, etc.
Local Gourmet
Gohei mochi, Shinshu soba, kuri-kinton chestnut sweets, etc.
Experience Programs
Local food-making experience, pottery-making experience, bamboo lantern-making experience, etc.
Accommodations
Guesthouses, temple lodgings, Japanese inns
Access
Just a short walk from Magome, Approx. 30 minutes by local bus from JR Nakatsugawa Station
A post town that still preserves the atmosphere of the Edo period
A post town that still preserves the atmosphere of the Edo period

2. Tsumago-juku

Tsumago-juku is the 42nd post town on the Nakasendo, located in Nagiso Town, Nagano Prefecture.
The town has preserved its precious streetscape, unchanged since the late Edo period, across the entire community, and in 1976 it became the first district in Japan to be designated as an Important Preservation District for Groups of Traditional Buildings.
Its orderly rows of historic buildings have been featured by overseas media, including the BBC in the U.K., as the "Samurai Road," and it has become a famous sightseeing destination around the world.
The scenery of stone-paved roads and houses with lattice windows still conveys the appearance of the old post town, and staying at a guesthouse lets you experience a sense of life from that time.
Surrounded by mountain streams and mountains, it is also an appealing place to relax away from the noise of the city.
It is about a 3-hour walk from the above-mentioned Magome-juku and is popular as a hiking course, so it is well worth trying.
The main highlights and access information are shown in the table below.

Popular Spots
Tsumago-juku Honjin, Wakihonjin Okuya, History Museum, etc.
Local Gourmet
Gohei mochi, oyaki, hoba-maki, etc.
Experience Programs
Handwoven hinoki sedge hat coaster making, washi paper-making experience, kimono experience, etc.
Accommodations
Japanese inns, guesthouses *No rooms have private baths or toilets
Access
Just a short walk from Tsumago, Approx. 10 minutes by local bus or sightseeing taxi from JR Nagiso Station
Tsumago-juku, a great stop to enjoy together with Magome-juku
Tsumago-juku, a great stop to enjoy together with Magome-juku

3. Narai-juku

Narai-juku is the 34th post town on the Nakasendo, located in Shiojiri City, Nagano Prefecture.
It developed at the foot of a hill at the highest elevation in Kisoji, 940 m above sea level, and was once such a lively post town lined with so many houses that it was called "Narai Senken."
Today, it is designated as an Important Preservation District for Groups of Traditional Buildings, and many visitors come in search of its scenery filled with the atmosphere and charm of the Edo period.
The biggest attraction of Narai-juku is its old townscape, the longest in Japan, stretching for about 1 km north to south along the Nakasendo.
From the south side, it is divided into three areas: Kamimachi, Nakamachi, and Shimomachi.
Along the way, there is plenty to see, including the distinctive dashibari-zukuri architectural style, lanterns under former inns’ eaves, senbon-goshi latticework, local cuisine restaurants, and folk craft shops.
The main highlights and access information are summarized in the table below.

Popular Spots
Narai-juku Gokadera temples, Kiso Ohashi Bridge, Nakasendo cedar-lined road, Nihyaku Jizo, etc.
Local Gourmet
Shiojiri wine, nozawana, toji soba, etc.
Experience Programs
Hinoki chopstick making, gohei mochi making, Kiso shikki lacquer polishing experience, etc.
Accommodations
Available (Japanese inns, guesthouses)
Access
Approx. 3 minutes on foot from Narai Station, which is Approx. 30 minutes by JR Chuo Main Line from JR Shiojiri Station
Stroll through an Edo-period townscape lined with senbon-goshi houses and former inns
Stroll through an Edo-period townscape lined with senbon-goshi houses and former inns

A Nakasendo and Kisoji Journey Through Magome-juku, Tsumago-juku, and Narai-juku

Because the three post towns introduced above are relatively close to one another, you can visit them together with nearby sightseeing spots in two days.
You can travel from Magome-juku to Tsumago-juku by walking along the Nakasendo for about 3 hours.
Walking this part of the Nakasendo, which still preserves the atmosphere of the Edo period, just as people did in those days lets you feel the mood of the era more deeply and brings everyday life of the time closer to you.
The schedules for Day 1 and Day 2 are as follows.

Day 1 Schedule

Spend the morning sightseeing in Magome-juku and the afternoon in Tsumago-juku.
From JR Nakatsugawa, take a bus to Magome-juku. From Magome-juku to Tsumago-juku, it is about a 3-hour walk along the Nakasendo.
Stay overnight at an accommodation in Tsumago-juku, where you can experience the atmosphere and lifestyle of the Edo period.

Morning
JR Nakatsugawa Station → Magome-juku
Afternoon
Magome-juku → Magome Pass → Tsumago-juku

Day 2 Schedule

On Day 2, take a bus for about 10 minutes from Tsumago-juku to the nearest station.
From there, take a train and arrive at JR Narai Station, the nearest station to Narai-juku, in about 1 hour and 10 minutes.
From JR Narai Station, it is about a 3-minute walk to Narai-juku.

Morning
Tsumago-juku → JR Nagiso Station → JR Narai Station → Narai-juku

7 Popular Sightseeing Spots to Add to Your Nakasendo Travel Plan

Along the Nakasendo route connecting Magome-juku, Tsumago-juku, and Narai-juku, there are many appealing spots besides the post towns themselves, so be sure to add the following seven popular sightseeing spots to your itinerary.
However, when heading from Magome-juku to Tsumago-juku, you need to start by 3:00pm in summer and by 2:30pm in winter.
Also note that all shops in Tsumago-juku, including restaurants, close at 5:00pm.
Depending on your departure time, visiting one or two spots is about the limit, so keep in mind that you may not have time to explore at a relaxed pace.
In addition, trains between Tsumago-juku and Narai-juku are very infrequent, so make sure to plan your schedule carefully in advance.
If your itinerary allows, staying for two nights instead of one is also recommended.

1. Nezame no Toko

Nezame no Toko is a nationally designated scenic spot located in Agematsu Town, Kiso District, Nagano Prefecture.
It is known for its white granite rock formations created by erosion from the Kiso River, and its beautiful scenery is counted among Japan’s five great gorges and the Eight Views of Kiso.
The spectacular scene of unusual rocks spread along the riverbank and crystal-clear water flowing through them could be called a work of natural art.
It is especially beautiful on sunny days, when the contrast with the blue sky stands out, and in the early morning and at dusk, when the angle of light causes the rock surfaces and water to change moment by moment.
Nezame no Toko is also famous as the setting of the legend of Urashima Taro.
Nearby is Urashima-do, where Urashima Taro is said to have secluded himself after opening the jeweled box, making it a great place for a romantic stroll.

A stunning view of unusual rock formations and the clear Kiso River
A stunning view of unusual rock formations and the clear Kiso River

2. Atera Valley

Atera Valley is a beautiful gorge in Okuwa Village, Kiso District, Nagano Prefecture, stretching for Approx. 15 km.
It is one of the leading sightseeing spots in Kisoji, where you can refresh both body and mind while surrounded by quiet, untouched nature.
Its greatest highlight is the crystal-clear emerald-green stream known as "Atera Blue."
Surrounding it are waterfalls and suspension bridges where you can enjoy Atera Blue, along with activities such as playing in the stream and barbecuing, letting you fully experience the area’s abundant nature.
Among them, Tanukigafuchi and the Akahiko Suspension Bridge are especially recommended for their spectacular views.
Because walking paths are well maintained, it is also a great place to enjoy the uniquely beautiful scenery with the sound of the clear stream as background music.

The clear waters of Atera Blue and a suspension bridge
The clear waters of Atera Blue and a suspension bridge

3. Akasawa Natural Recreational Forest

Akasawa Natural Recreational Forest, located in Agematsu Town, Kiso District, Nagano Prefecture, is home to the Kiso hinoki forest, one of Japan’s three most beautiful forests.
This vast area, covering about 760 ha at elevations of 1,080–1,558 m, has a long history and was highly valued by the Sengoku warlord Toyotomi Hideyoshi.
As the trees of the Kiso mountains were cut down with the development of castle towns during the Edo period, this area was protected at an early stage, and after the war it was managed as a national forest. It is also known as the birthplace of shinrin-yoku, or forest bathing.
The sight of giant hinoki trees over 300 years old standing in rows is breathtaking, and one of its great attractions is being able to experience the beauty and history of Kiso hinoki up close.
There are seven walking routes that both adults and children can enjoy, and the sounds of babbling brooks, birdsong, and the scent of hinoki help soothe both body and mind.
*Sightseeing season: usually from late April to early November

Enjoy hiking and forest bathing
Enjoy hiking and forest bathing

4. Torii Pass

Located on the border between Nagano and Gifu Prefectures, between Narai-juku and Yabuhara-juku, Torii Pass is a mountain trail of Approx. 6 km known as one of the most challenging sections of the Nakasendo.
Today, trekking courses have been developed there, and many visitors enjoy walking the pass while feeling the traces of the old route.
The spectacular views from this pass, where history and beautiful nature meet, are breathtaking, and from the summit at about 1,200 m above sea level, you can see Mt. Ontake to the west and Mt. Kisokomagatake to the east.
The cherry blossoms in spring and autumn leaves that vividly color the mountains are especially unforgettable.
Along the trail, there are also many historical remains that stir the spirit of travel, including Edo-period signposts and small shrines, as well as stone monuments bearing poems by haiku and waka poets and stone Buddhas.
It is also recommended to stop by the tourist information centers in Narai-juku or Yabuhara-juku and rent a traditional Shinshu craft item called a hinoki sedge hat.

Autumn mountains viewed from Torii Pass
Autumn mountains viewed from Torii Pass

5. Yamamura Daikan Residence

The Yamamura Daikan Residence, located in Kiso Town, Kiso District, Nagano Prefecture, was the magistrate’s office passed down through generations of the Yamamura family, who governed the Kiso Valley during the Edo period.
Part of its solid structure, built as the residence of upper-ranking samurai, remains preserved as a component cultural property of a Japan Heritage site.
Within the grounds, buildings are arranged to blend into Kiso’s rich natural surroundings, and the spacious main house and formal guest rooms convey the lifestyle and authority of officials from that time.
Highlights include the tiled roof and earthen walls that reflect distinctive Edo-period design, as well as the pond garden that incorporates the Kiso mountain range into its borrowed scenery.
Its historical value is high, and you are sure to be impressed by its beautiful structure.
Inside the residence, you can also learn about the role and lifestyle of the magistrate through exhibits such as calligraphy and paintings associated with the Yamamura family and replica banquet dishes.

The imposing gate of the Yamamura Daikan Residence is also a highlight
The imposing gate of the Yamamura Daikan Residence is also a highlight

6. Fukushima Checkpoint Ruins and Fukushima Checkpoint Museum

The Fukushima Checkpoint Ruins and Fukushima Checkpoint Museum are historic facilities located in Kiso Town, Kiso District, Nagano Prefecture.
Fukushima Checkpoint was one of the four major checkpoints established on the Five Routes by the Edo shogunate to manage traffic and maintain public order.
For about 270 years, it was known as a place where "incoming guns and outgoing women" were strictly controlled, meaning weapons entering Edo and women leaving it.
Today, the checkpoint ruins have been turned into a historic park, and the reconstructed gate and fences still evoke the atmosphere of the time.
Combined with the surrounding nature, it is a place where you can enjoy imagining the tension that once filled the area as you walk around.
At the Fukushima Checkpoint Museum, valuable materials are displayed, including travel permits, tools used by officials, actual models of the checkpoint, and dioramas.

Visit a checkpoint that travelers could not easily pass through
Visit a checkpoint that travelers could not easily pass through

7. Kakizore Valley

Kakizore Valley, located in Nagiso Town, Kiso District, Nagano Prefecture, is a gorge stretching for Approx. 8 km formed by the Kakizore River eroding granite.
It is known as one of the most secluded scenic spots in Kisoji, with beautiful natural scenery featuring an emerald-green river and waterfalls sparkling with exceptional clarity.
It is also popular as a place where you can feel at one with nature while surrounded by the sound of water and rustling trees.
Along the way are many highlights, including a suspension bridge called Koiji no Tsuribashi that is Approx. 35 m long, walking paths with steep ups and downs, and scenic areas with a series of deep pools.
Among them, Ushigataki, where water drops straight into the basin below, is sure to impress you with its power and clarity.
Another attraction is the changing atmosphere with the seasons, from playing in the water in summer to the contrast with autumn leaves in fall.

A waterfall basin with mystical beauty
A waterfall basin with mystical beauty

3 More Post Towns to Visit if You Want to Discover More of the Nakasendo’s Charm

Beyond the post towns introduced so far, there are still more post towns along the Nakasendo where the atmosphere of the Edo period remains.
For those who want to discover the Nakasendo’s charm more deeply, here are three more recommended places to end with.
Be sure to visit the post town that interests you most.

1. Yabuhara-juku

Yabuhara-juku is the 34th post town on the Nakasendo and is located in Shiojiri City, Nagano Prefecture.
It prospered as a key transportation hub connecting the north and south of the Kiso Valley and was also called the "gateway to Kiso."
Even today, merchant houses and former inns that retain traces of those days remain along the old route.
Particularly unique to Yabuhara-juku are the demonstration performances at Orokugushi no Sato, designated as an intangible cultural property, and the remains of a kosatsuba, where official notices and proclamations were posted during the Edo period.
It is also known as a production area of Kiso lacquerware, which has a tradition of over 400 years, where you can purchase beautiful handmade crafts and daily-use items.

Kiso lacquerware, known for its beautiful gloss
Kiso lacquerware, known for its beautiful gloss

2. Samegai-juku

Samegai-juku is the 61st post town on the Nakasendo and is located in Maibara City, Shiga Prefecture.
The Jizogawa River, which flows westward along Samegai-juku, has its source in Isame no Shimizu, the spring water that also gave Samegai its name, and the surrounding area still preserves a charming townscape.
Isame no Shimizu is a spring said to be where the hero of Japanese mythology, Yamato Takeru, washed away the poison from his body, and it has also been selected as one of the 100 Remarkable Waters of the Heisei era.

Elegant baikamo aquatic flowers blooming in the Jizogawa River at Samegai-juku
Elegant baikamo aquatic flowers blooming in the Jizogawa River at Samegai-juku

3. Kusatsu-juku

Kusatsu-juku is the 52nd post town on the Nakasendo and is located in Kusatsu City, Shiga Prefecture.
It flourished as a key transportation hub where the Tokaido and Nakasendo intersected, and it was a historic place where many travelers and merchants came and went.
Even today, buildings and spots that retain traces of those times are scattered throughout the area, and the streets lined with old machiya townhouses are full of post-town charm.
Among them, the nationally designated historic site Kusatsu-juku Honjin is especially recommended.
It is one of the few remaining honjin, lodgings for daimyo and high-ranking officials, and its interior is open to the public as a museum.

Kusatsu Honjin, once used as lodgings for daimyo and court nobles
Kusatsu Honjin, once used as lodgings for daimyo and court nobles

FAQ about the Nakasendo

Q

How long does it take to walk the entire Nakasendo from start to finish?

A

If you walk the Approx. 530 km route at about 30 km per day, it would take around 16 days. The actual time may vary depending on your walking pace, how often you rest, and whether you include sightseeing along the way.

Q

What is the difference between Nakasendo and Nakasendo written with different characters?

A

They both refer to the same route. Until the name was standardized as Nakasendo in 1716, different names were used depending on the historical background and region.

Q

Can you only travel between Nakasendo post towns on foot?

A

You can also travel by local bus or sightseeing taxi. These are good options if you are not confident about walking long distances or if you have limited time.

Summary

This article has introduced the history of the Nakasendo, with a focus on recommended post towns.
Even now, more than 400 years after the Nakasendo was established, the streetscapes and traces of that era remain in its post towns.
As a route that symbolizes Japan’s history and the evolution of transportation, it is an important heritage site that reminds visitors of its historical significance.
Each post town has its own character, and there are many ways to enjoy them, from local specialties to traditional crafts, so be sure to visit the ones that catch your interest.
When you actually walk the route, you are sure to feel the hardships of travel in those days and the depth of Japanese culture even more strongly.