Kyoto’s Geisha District Complete Culture Guide: Elegance Caught in Time with Geiko and Maiko

The largest of all five districts. Since the Edo period, the area around Yasaka Shrine flourished as a teahouse district. In 1881, the district was divided into two, forming what is now Gion Kobu. Its stately stone-paved streets are lined with ochaya and traditional eateries. Dances here follow the Inoue School of Kyomai style, with major shows like the Miyako Odori in spring and Onshukai in autumn.

The look and feel of this streetscape beams with the rich refinement of an old-world hanamachi. The area developed in tandem with other performing arts like that at the Minami-za Kabuku Theatre nearby, a product of kabuki dance and its origins stemming from Izumo no Okuni here during the early Edo period.
Dances here outline the styles of Wakayanagi School, with major performances like Kyo Odori occurring and spring and Mizue Kai in autumn.

Pontocho is the 500-meter long narrow alley between Shijo and Sanjo found along the west banks of the Kamo River. Lined with ochaya, okiya and eateries brandished with red “bengara” latticework, Ponto-cho first prospered during the Edo period as a hub for river transport and traveler’s inns.
Dance styles here align with the Onoe School, with key shows including the Kamogawa Odori in spring and Suimei Kai in autumn.

Kamishichiken is a traditional geisha district located near Kitano Tenmangu Shrine in Kamigyo Ward, Kyoto. The torii gate visible in the background marks the entrance to Kitano Tenmangu.
Unlike Kyoto’s other four hanamachi, which are closer to busy downtown areas, Kamishichiken sits slightly apart, giving it a calm and refined atmosphere. Its origins date back to the mid-Muromachi period, when seven teahouses were built using leftover timber from the reconstruction of Kitano Tenmangu Shrine. It is said that this is how the area came to be known as “Kami-shichi-ken” (literally, “Upper Seven Houses”).
The district’s dance tradition belongs to the Hanayagi school. Public performances include the Kitano Odori in spring and the Kotobuki-kai in autumn.

This district sits in the heart of Kyoto’s main entertainment district. Once a section of Gion Kobu, this area became its own district during the Meiji period.
Spot this area for its traditional ochaya buildings hugged by a unique and striking contrast of modern buildings.
Dance styles here follow the ways of the Fujima School, with key Gion Odori shows performned in autumn.

Upon entering the facility, first give your reservation number at the reception desk. You will be given a colored rubber bracelet. The colors vary by reservation time slot, so wear it until your session begins and be careful not to lose it.

Bask in the moments before your booking over at any of the 3 gardens on site. The property itself is logged in Japan as a Registered Tangible Cultural Property, formally the esteemed merchant shop and estate of the Itoki Shoten maker. Nearly a century old since its construction in 1926, this two-story machiya house beems with authentic Japanese flair and architecture. Inside you may find a number of guests wearing yukata or kimono while snapping a photo just in front of the nodate umbrellas. There are a number of props like umbrellas and masks you can use to snap a personal memento as you wait.

As you wait, keep in mind that you are still in a quiet residential neighborhood. Keep your voice low and take in all the serene, slow-paced atmosphere of this Kyoto garden.

Make your way inside at your scheduled time.
There won’t be a curtain call, so be sure not to forget your time while basking time away in the garden. Take your shoes off as you enter inside. Once there, you will be guided to a waiting room. The waiting room is another celebrated corner to the culture, complete with geiko and maiko mannequins, Kyomaru uchi (Kyoto-style rounded fans), Japanese umbrellas and books detailing the culture of what you see.

These red and white round fans bear the names of geiko and maiko. Since the Meiji era, it has been customary in Kyoto’s hanamachi to give these fans to ochaya, restaurants, and other establishments who have supported the artists. The front displays the crest of the ochaya or the geiko’s household; the back shows the hanamachi’s name and the artist’s stage name. Kyomaru uchiwa serve both as a means of promoting the geiko/maiko and as a symbol showing that they frequent the establishment. They are an iconic part of hanamachi culture. When visiting shops in Kyoto, keep an eye out for them.

After leaving the waiting room its time to proceed to the main room and Japanese hall. Each session can hold up to around 10 guests. Once inside there are seating cushions arranged in a semi-circle. Please sit, without any stress to sit in formal seiza style. There are small chairs available if sitting cross-legged in uncomfortable.

The sessions kicks off with an English explanation by a guide, who introduces the hanamachi, geiko and maiko culture, and the differences between them. You will learn about the five hanamachi of Kyoto, how to distinguish geiko and maiko by their hairstyles, kimono sleeves, and obi styles, cultural hints that will be useful later. The explanation lasts about five minutes. If photography or video recording is allowed at certain times, the guide will announce it clearly beforehand. Please follow instructions and avoid disrupting the event by photographing without permission.

Once said and done its time for the arrival of the geiko or maiko. A performer from one of the five hanamachi will appear, and the guide will ask the group to guess whether she is a geiko or a maiko. If you listened carefully during the explanation, this will be an easy quiz. When I visited, a maiko appeared. From her ornate hair ornaments and long kimono sleeves, visitors were able to answer correctly. She introduced herself and greeted us with “Otanomōshimasu,” a Kyoto dialect phrase used by geiko and maiko meaning “I humbly ask for your kindness.” When she greets you this way, please respond by repeating her again with “Otanomōshimasu.” Notice her graceful posture, kneeling with her fingertips together on the tatami, spine straight, and bowing deeply.

This special greeting is a show of respect and gratitude for each guest that visits.

Groups such as families, couples, or friends may take photos with the geiko or maiko using their own smartphones. You will be quite close, but be careful not to touch them or step on the hem of their expensive kimono. About half the visitors were wearing rental kimono, which made their photos even more memorable. Wearing kimono for the photo is highly recommended if you want an extra special experience.

Each group has the chance to ask the geiko or maiko one question. Even Japanese people rarely have such an opportunity. I hadn’t prepared a question, so I struggled a bit and eventually asked, “What inspired you to become a maiko?” Other groups asked about the highlights of their work, how one comes to industry, or about the daily schedule. The maiko answered each question politely and thoughtfully.

The timing of this article was autumn, meaning the seasonal dance of choice was “Momiji no Hashi”, a popular short dance that expresses the transition from autumn to winter. Using two fans decorated with autumn leaves, she danced gracefully. The performance lasted about three minutes, but the beautiful moments from posture to fingertips was timelessly mesmerizing. Dance performances are held during spring and autumn events in each hanamachi, they are usually within the “ichigen-san okotowari” world, so even Japanese people rarely get to see them from such a close distance.

The dance ends with the geiko or maiko moving to perform tea ceremony. Each person is given a tea bowl, a tea whisk, and a traditional sweet. Tea ceremony is an essential skill for geiko and maiko, as they serve tea during the spring and autumn odori dance events. Photos were allowed during this part.

When she signals “Please enjoy your sweets,” you eat the sweets first. This day’s sweets were Kyoto’s famous yatsuhashi and a type of higashi (a dry sugar sweet used in tea ceremony).
Please be sure to inform your guide of any food allergies or restrictions so they can check. Once the tea preparation is complete, it is time to say farewell. She bows with her hands placed neatly in front of her (the mittsu-yubi gesture) and says “Ōkini,” meaning “Thank you very much.” Please return her gratitude likewise with mittsu-yubi and “Ōkini.”

Finally, its time to whisk up your own bowl of matcha. The guide explains how to hold the tea whisk lightly with the thumb, index, and middle finger, and how to whisk vertically, then in a zig-zag motion. Be careful not to scrape the bottom of the bowl, as both the bowl and the whisk are delicate. When the bright green matcha turns a lighter shade and forms a creamy foam, draw one large circle with the whisk to finish. Even the most novice of tea-drinkers can do it, especially with the guide there to assist. Tea that you whisk yourself tastes especially delicious, and enjoying it in a traditional Kyoto townhouse is a wonderful experience you may not soon forget.

This brings the event to a close. Total time runs about 45 minutes, filled with luxe moments and unforgettable memories. Even the locals of Japan will confirm how rare it is to get to see a Geisha or maiko up close. Join and see something truly worthwhile.