If you have the chance to visit Yamaga Onsen, be sure to set aside time for Yachiyoza, the century-old wooden kabuki theater. For travelers who appreciate traditional culture, I recommend buying a combo ticket with the Yamaga Lantern Folk Art Museum directly at the ticket counter so you can take in the best of the town’s craftsmanship in one visit.
I was very lucky during this visit and happened to catch a local group rehearsing onstage. Watching the central revolving stage turn smoothly and change the scenery almost like magic, I was amazed but had no idea how it worked. After the rehearsal ended, I followed the narrow wooden stairs down into the secret basement beneath the stage. Only when I saw it with my own eyes was I deeply struck by the wisdom of the people who built it. The seemingly effortless movement onstage was powered entirely by people working together with all their strength to push a massive, heavy wooden axle in a dark, cramped space. It was genuinely moving.
Back on the tatami in the audience area, I found a comfortable corner and sat quietly. Looking up, I saw vintage advertisements for local businesses from a century ago painted across the ceiling. The wooden beams and pillars gave off a deep, tranquil scent of age, and every detail told of the prosperity that continued from the Edo period into the Meiji period. Being there was not only a feast for the eyes but also an immersion in authentic local culture. It was a truly rare cultural experience.
