Komezuka | Review by 一個漸漸喜歡上慢旅的人

Kamishikimi Kumanoimasu Shrine, which became widely known because of the movie Into the Forest of Fireflies' Light, is tucked away in the woods of Minamiaso. This time, we made a special effort to drive from Kumamoto early in the morning and visit before the tour groups arrived, finally getting to enjoy this pure tranquility, as if entering another world, all to ourselves.

The mountain forest was shrouded in a light morning mist. As we slowly followed the approach, nearly a hundred moss-covered stone lanterns and towering cedar trees stood solemnly on both sides, steeped in a profound sense of history. After praying at the simple, unadorned shrine, don't forget to continue up the hillside behind it to see Ugeto Iwa, the legendary stone from mythology. Just as we turned around to head down the mountain, lively tour groups began pouring onto the steps, making us even more grateful that we had arrived early enough to experience that undisturbed, ethereal atmosphere.

After descending the mountain, I recommend stopping by Takamori Dengaku Hozonkai, where you can sit around a traditional sunken hearth and grill local dishes over charcoal. The Aso river fish, slowly grilled over charcoal, had crispy skin and tender meat. Paired with taro and tofu coated in rich miso, the flavors were simple yet unforgettable. When the warm and talkative owner heard that we were from Taiwan, he gave us an especially friendly welcome. As someone who loves food, I picked up a jar of the restaurant's homemade dengaku miso before leaving. Back in Taiwan, I can spread it on ingredients and lightly grill them anytime I want to relive those warm, pure local flavors.

During my trip to Takachiho, I had been deeply disappointed that boating was canceled due to the water level. But then I came to the Amaterasu Railway and was lucky enough to get a seat from the waitlist, boarding the semi-open-air little train that offered the most warmth and emotional fulfillment of the entire trip.

The roofless cars, converted from the old Takachiho Line, slowly made their way into the mountains and dark tunnels amid a gentle breeze and the rumble of the diesel engine. As the train continued to climb and finally stopped in the middle of what was once Japan’s highest railway bridge, the magnificent mountain ranges and deep gorge spread out below us.

The conductor gently turned off the engine and thoughtfully gave everyone plenty of time to take pictures. Even more surprisingly, he brought out a bubble machine and sent sparkling, colorful bubbles out over the incredibly deep gorge. The rainbow-colored bubbles floated on the wind between the blue sky and the railway bridge, as beautiful as a fairy tale.

Perhaps this is exactly what makes travel so captivating: there are unexpected disappointments, but there are always unanticipated surprises as well. The conductor’s sincere, pure, radiant smile remains deeply etched in my heart to this day, warming all my memories of Takachiho.

Takachiho Gorge, formed over tens of thousands of years as lava from Mount Aso was eroded, truly lives up to its reputation as an internationally renowned natural wonder.

Although I had specifically reserved a boat ride online before setting out, it was unfortunately suspended when I arrived due to rising water levels. However, looking out from the elevated gorge trail and slowly experiencing the land on foot instead gave me a different perspective.

Looking down from above, the spectacular basalt columnar joints on both sides rise dozens of meters, straight and steep. Manai Falls, one of Japan's 100 most famous waterfalls, pours down between the cliffs like a ribbon of white silk, sending spray into the air. At noon, sunlight filters through the dense forest and falls on the deep emerald waters of the gorge. With light and shadow intermingling, it looks like a still ink-wash painting. Gazing at it for a long time brought an especially deep sense of peace and restoration to both body and mind.