Funaoka Onsen is a public bathhouse at the foot of Mount Funaoka in Murasakino, Kita Ward, Kyoto, near Kinkaku-ji Temple. Its history dates back to 1923 (Taisho 12), when it opened as the bathhouse attached to the Funaokaro traditional inn and restaurant. This renowned, long-established public bathhouse has been in operation for nearly a century. From the changing rooms to the bathing areas, it retains much of the character of the Taisho and Showa eras. In July 2003, it became Japan’s third operating public bathhouse—and the first in Kyoto—to be registered as a National Tangible Cultural Property.
The changing room features a coffered ceiling made of Japanese zelkova, with striking wooden carvings of a tengu and the warrior Minamoto no Yoshitsune at its center. The transoms surrounding the room are decorated with exquisite openwork carvings depicting scenes such as the Aoi Festival procession, the Kamo Kurabeuma horse race at Kamigamo-jinja Shrine, the festival at Imamiya-jinja Shrine, and the Shanghai Incident.
The walls of the washroom connecting the changing room and bathing area are also decorated with majolica tiles, a style that originated on the Spanish island of Mallorca. It is extremely rare to see museum-quality luxury tiles used so lavishly as wall material in an operating public bathhouse rather than preserved as exhibits. Outside, a covered walkway incorporates Kikusui Bridge, which was relocated from Senbon Kuramaguchi. Magnificent ornamental carp swim in the pond beneath it.
More discoveries and surprises await in the bathing area. The electric bath, installed in 1933 (Showa 8), is said to have been the first of its kind in Japan. The second-generation owner introduced it to obtain official hot spring status in Kyoto, despite the lack of a natural hot spring source, and the facility was approved under the name “Special Funaoka Onsen.” The open-air bath makes lavish use of Kibune stone, a prized landscaping material said to change into seven colors when wet.
Every part of the facility feels far more luxurious than one might expect from a public bathhouse. The men’s and women’s bathing areas alternate daily, so visiting on consecutive days offers an interesting opportunity to experience their different atmospheres.
Highlights
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The changing rooms and bathing areas are registered as a National Tangible Cultural Property.
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The wooden ceiling carvings and openwork transoms in the changing rooms.
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Majolica tiles covering the washroom walls.
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Japan’s first electric bath.
