On this trip to Kumamoto in Kyushu, I finally got to see Kumamoto Castle, one of Japan's three great castles, in person! As soon as I reached the castle grounds, I was overwhelmed by the massive, imposing black-and-white stone walls known as musha-gaeshi. Their curves are both beautiful and steep, and just standing beneath them, you can feel their powerful historical presence as defenses.
Although the castle suffered severe damage in the 2016 Kumamoto earthquakes, after years of careful and persistent restoration, the main keep has now been perfectly restored to its former regal appearance. Inside the exhibition hall, historical artifacts and models are presented in a very modern and vivid way, telling in detail about the castle-building ingenuity of Kato Kiyomasa and its other successive lords, as well as the turbulent history of this renowned castle.
After making the tough climb to the observation deck on the top floor, the entire Kumamoto cityscape and the distant mountains suddenly spread out before me. The view was incredibly expansive. Besides the main keep, the restored large wooden historic buildings nearby, such as Sukiyamaru Niyou-no-Tsubo, are just as intricately crafted and give off an authentic Edo-period atmosphere.
I highly recommend putting Kumamoto Castle on your must-visit list when traveling to Kumamoto in Kyushu. Whether you come to see the magnificent black castle architecture or experience the resilience local people have shown in the face of disaster, it will definitely be a moving journey through history and culture!








