Naminoue Shrine | Review by Holly

Nijo-jo Castle is very famous for its cherry blossoms. There are many varieties inside the castle grounds, from early-blooming to late-blooming ones, so the viewing season lasts longer than at places with only one variety. The Nijo-jo Castle Cherry Blossom Festival and nighttime illuminations are also held every spring. Although I visited near the end of cherry blossom season, luckily I still saw quite a few trees in full bloom.

Nijo-jo Castle is also very important in Japan’s modern history. It was at Ninomaru Palace that the 15th shogun, Tokugawa Yoshinobu, asked for opinions on returning political authority to the emperor. He later formally returned power to the imperial court, symbolizing the end of Tokugawa shogunate rule. Today, when visiting Ninomaru Palace, you can also see mannequins in the Great Hall recreating this historical scene.

Another interesting feature of Ninomaru Palace is the corridor commonly known as the “nightingale floor.” It makes a sound when you walk on it. I tried really hard to see if I could cross without making any noise, but it was simply impossible. As soon as you put any weight on it, it chirps.

My personal favorite is still the Karamon Gate before entering Ninomaru Palace. The cypress-bark roof has karahafu gables on both the front and back, and the gate is covered in vividly colored carvings of pine, bamboo, plum blossoms, cranes, Chinese guardian lions, and more. It’s truly magnificent. Many traditional buildings in Kyoto tend to have a more understated feel, but the Karamon gates at Nijo-jo Castle and Toyokuni Shrine take a completely different approach. Just looking at them, you can really feel the difference that comes with being in power.

Nijo-jo Castle originally also had a five-story keep, said to have been relocated from Fushimi Castle, but it burned down after being struck by lightning in 1750 and was never rebuilt. Today, you can only climb the former keep’s stone base to see the ruins and surrounding scenery, which feels a little unfortunate. But from another perspective, the truly valuable part of Nijo-jo Castle isn’t the keep, but the fact that Ninomaru Palace has survived. Most of the original palaces at Edo Castle, Osaka Castle, and Nagoya Castle have disappeared, and Nagoya Castle’s Honmaru Palace was only recently reconstructed based on historical records. Although part of Kawagoe Castle’s Honmaru Palace remains, it is no longer a complete palace complex. Nijo-jo Castle’s Ninomaru Palace, however, has been preserved intact, along with its Kano school wall paintings, transoms, and decorative metal fittings. This is what truly makes it irreplaceable among Japanese castle architecture.

Fushimi Inari Taisha really is one of Kyoto’s classic sights and is well worth visiting at least once. Probably because it’s so famous, the approach and shopping street at the foot of the mountain are almost always bustling. If you want a quieter visit, I highly recommend coming early, seeing the shrine and walking through the Senbon Torii first. By the time you come back down, the shops will be starting to open, so you can grab something to eat, recharge, and then continue with your next activity.

The shrine’s most iconic feature is, of course, the Senbon Torii. Rows of vermilion torii gates stretch all the way into the mountain, and actually walking through them is still very impressive. Once, I really did climb all the way up Mount Inari to the area around Ichinomine, near the summit. I have to say, the scenery on the mountain itself isn’t especially spectacular, but the atmosphere is completely different from below. At the bottom, there are still tourists, shops, and bustling crowds, but it gets quieter the higher you go. Eventually, all that’s left is the forest, torii gates, and small shrines, creating an even stronger sense of mystery.

There’s also the famous “Omokaru Stone” next to the Okusha Hohaisho. First, make a wish in front of the stone lantern, then lift the round stone on top. If it feels lighter than you imagined, it means your wish is more likely to come true. If it feels heavier than expected, it means you may need to put in more effort. When I lifted it, all I could think was that it was pretty heavy. Apparently, the problem wasn’t the stone—my wish was just too heavy.

What truly makes Fushimi Inari Taisha special isn’t just the Senbon Torii itself, but also the fox messengers seen everywhere. If time and energy allow, I recommend not stopping at the first section of the Senbon Torii. Walk at least a little farther up, and you’ll see a completely different side of Fushimi Inari Taisha.

Nishiki Market felt to me like a blend of a Japanese shopping street and traditional markets such as Kizu Market and Omicho Market. The entire street is packed with shops selling everything from Kyoto pickles, tofu, tamagoyaki, seafood, and dried goods to wagashi and matcha desserts. However, Nishiki Market now officially reminds visitors not to eat while walking. After purchasing food, it is best to eat in front of the shop or in a designated area inside.

That said, there aren't many places where you can sit down and eat, so you may want to have something beforehand and then come browse. It's good for trying small snacks, while many items are better bought to eat back at your hotel. This time, I also bought tamagoyaki from one shop. I had high expectations, but after eating it, I realized I really do seem to prefer the Kanto style. I looked it up afterward and learned that Kansai-style tamagoyaki mainly features the flavor of dashi and is lighter, while I prefer the sweeter Kanto version with a more pronounced flavor. Another interesting item commonly seen in the market is baby octopus stuffed with a quail egg. A whole baby octopus has a quail egg inside, giving it a very distinctive appearance. This was also my first time trying it here, and it was a memorable snack.

At the eastern end of Nishiki Market is Nishiki Tenmangu Shrine. The main deity enshrined here is Sugawara no Michizane, so like other Tenmangu shrines, it is known for worship related to learning and wisdom and is very popular. After all, who wouldn't want to pray for knowledge and wisdom? The grounds also have “Nishiki Water,” which springs from about 30 meters underground. It's very convenient to stop by and pray after reaching the end of the market.

Next to Nishiki Tenmangu Shrine is the Shinkyogoku branch of Tamaru Inbo, which I make a point of visiting every time I come. Their “Kyo Ufufu Stamps” come in around 1,000 designs, ranging from Japanese-style patterns and Kyoto themes to amusing text stamps. If you like planners and stamps, it's really easy to lose control here. The prices certainly aren't cheap, but the stamp designs and craftsmanship are excellent, and I personally feel the quality justifies the price.