Fushimi Inari Taisha | Review by Holly

Nijo-jo Castle is very famous for its cherry blossoms. There are many varieties inside the castle grounds, from early- to late-blooming ones, so the viewing season lasts longer than at spots with only one variety. The Nijo-jo Castle Cherry Blossom Festival and nighttime illuminations are also held every spring. Although I came near the end of cherry blossom season, fortunately I still saw quite a few trees in full bloom.

Nijo-jo Castle is also very important in Japan's modern history. The 15th shogun, Tokugawa Yoshinobu, asked for opinions about returning political power to the emperor at Ninomaru Palace, and later formally returned power to the Imperial Court, symbolizing the approaching end of Tokugawa shogunate rule. When visiting Ninomaru Palace today, you can also see figures in the Grand Hall recreating this historical scene.

Another interesting feature of Ninomaru Palace is the corridor commonly known as the "nightingale floor." It makes a sound when you walk on it. I tried really hard to see if I could walk without making any sound at all, but it was simply impossible—it creaks as soon as you put your weight on it.

My personal favorite is still the Karamon Gate before entering Ninomaru Palace. Its cypress-bark roof has karahafu gables on both the front and back, and the gate is covered in vividly colored carvings of pine, bamboo, plum blossoms, cranes, and Chinese lions. It's truly magnificent. Many traditional buildings in Kyoto tend to give a more understated impression, but the Karamon gates at Nijo-jo Castle and Toyokuni Shrine take a completely different approach. Just looking at them, you can really feel the difference that being in power makes.

Nijo-jo Castle originally had a five-story keep as well, said to have been relocated from Fushimi Castle, but it burned down after being struck by lightning in 1750 and was never rebuilt. Today, you can only climb up to the keep's foundation to see the ruins and the surrounding scenery, which feels a little unfortunate. From another perspective, however, Nijo-jo Castle's true treasure isn't the keep, but the fact that Ninomaru Palace has survived. Most of the original palaces at Edo Castle, Osaka Castle, and Nagoya Castle have disappeared, and Nagoya Castle's Honmaru Palace was reconstructed only in recent years based on historical records. Although part of Kawagoe Castle's Honmaru Palace remains, it is no longer a complete palace complex. Nijo-jo Castle's Ninomaru Palace, by contrast, has been preserved in its entirety, along with its Kano school wall paintings, transoms, and decorative metalwork. This is what truly makes it irreplaceable among Japanese castle architecture.

Nishiki Market felt to me like a blend of a Japanese shopping street and traditional markets such as Kizu Market and Omicho Market. The entire street is packed with shops selling everything from Kyoto pickles, tofu, tamagoyaki, seafood, and dried goods to wagashi and matcha desserts. However, Nishiki Market now officially reminds visitors not to eat while walking. After purchasing food, it is best to eat in front of the shop or in a designated area inside.

That said, there aren't many places where you can sit down and eat, so you may want to have something beforehand and then come browse. It's good for trying small snacks, while many items are better bought to eat back at your hotel. This time, I also bought tamagoyaki from one shop. I had high expectations, but after eating it, I realized I really do seem to prefer the Kanto style. I looked it up afterward and learned that Kansai-style tamagoyaki mainly features the flavor of dashi and is lighter, while I prefer the sweeter Kanto version with a more pronounced flavor. Another interesting item commonly seen in the market is baby octopus stuffed with a quail egg. A whole baby octopus has a quail egg inside, giving it a very distinctive appearance. This was also my first time trying it here, and it was a memorable snack.

At the eastern end of Nishiki Market is Nishiki Tenmangu Shrine. The main deity enshrined here is Sugawara no Michizane, so like other Tenmangu shrines, it is known for worship related to learning and wisdom and is very popular. After all, who wouldn't want to pray for knowledge and wisdom? The grounds also have “Nishiki Water,” which springs from about 30 meters underground. It's very convenient to stop by and pray after reaching the end of the market.

Next to Nishiki Tenmangu Shrine is the Shinkyogoku branch of Tamaru Inbo, which I make a point of visiting every time I come. Their “Kyo Ufufu Stamps” come in around 1,000 designs, ranging from Japanese-style patterns and Kyoto themes to amusing text stamps. If you like planners and stamps, it's really easy to lose control here. The prices certainly aren't cheap, but the stamp designs and craftsmanship are excellent, and I personally feel the quality justifies the price.

I happened to catch the Kamigamo Handicraft Market, held at Kamigamo Shrine on the fourth Sunday of every month. I have to say, Japan's handicraft markets are really great for shopping. The vendors aren't just local Japanese people—you'll also see international artists taking part. They sell everything from fabric goods, leather items, pottery, and woodwork to household goods, and many of the pieces aren't just attractive but also highly practical. Some stalls even clear out materials or unfinished items at very reasonable prices.

Because of that, even though I hadn't particularly planned on buying anything, I ended up shopping the whole way through. The item that left the strongest impression on me was an orange canvas bag with cowhide handles. I still use it today, and it's truly very durable. The market also has some food stalls, but they mostly sell small baked goods, coffee, and handmade snacks rather than full meals. So if you plan to stay for a while, I'd recommend eating beforehand. The market is currently held from 9:00 to 15:00 on the fourth Sunday of every month, so check the date in advance if you want to catch it.

Another thing I really like about visiting in summer is the stream that runs through the shrine grounds where the market is held. When you get hot from browsing, you can take a walk by the water. Lots of children play in the stream. If you plan to visit in summer, I'd recommend bringing an extra towel or a pair of sandals so you can play in the water more easily. After all, this kind of atmosphere is rarely seen in Taiwan.

As for the shrine itself, Kamigamo Shrine and Shimogamo Shrine are both important shrines for the Kamo Festival, also known as the Aoi Festival. Both have striking vermilion tower gates, but they felt different to me. Shimogamo Shrine's gate feels grander, while Kamigamo Shrine's feels a little more refined and elegant. That may also have something to do with the large lawns, streams, and more open surroundings.

I visited near the end of cherry blossom season, so I wasn't expecting much. To my surprise, the large weeping cherry tree on the grounds still had blossoms, so I was very lucky. It was also almost May and just before the Kamo Kurabeuma horse race, so I saw riders and horses moving around the grounds. Kamigamo Shrine's Kamo Kurabeuma is held every year on May 5 and is an ancient equestrian ritual that has continued for over 900 years. Just seeing the horses being prepared was already very impressive, though unfortunately I didn't get to see the actual event this time.

There is also a sacred horse stable on the grounds, and I was lucky enough to see the white horse this time. Kamigamo Shrine has long had deep ties to horse worship and equestrian rituals, so everything from the sacred horse to the Kamo Kurabeuma gives this shrine a distinctive character that's less common among other shrines in Kyoto. Of the shrine items, my favorite is still the rabbit-shaped fortune slip. The tiny rabbit is truly adorable and is one of their signature items.

Overall, I really like Kamigamo Shrine. If you happen to visit on the fourth Sunday of the month when the handicraft market is held, I highly recommend setting aside half a day to browse at a leisurely pace, plus about another hour to properly visit the shrine grounds. That will pretty much fill the day. If you're even luckier, you may come across a Shinto wedding. I saw a bride in a white shiromuku kimono here, and she fit the atmosphere of the shrine beautifully.