Yamaga Onsen | Review by 一個漸漸喜歡上慢旅的人

Sakurai Futamigaura’s Couple Rocks, ranked among Japan’s 100 best sunset spots, are one of Itoshima’s most iconic landmarks.

Unlike the usual vermilion torii gates, a pure white torii stands at the edge of the beach, while the Couple Rocks in the distance, tightly bound together by a heavy shimenawa rope, complement each other. They symbolize a lifelong bond and sacred protection.

Although the weather was overcast, the clear seawater gently lapped against the fine sand, accompanied by a soft sea breeze. Just sitting on the shore and gazing into the distance was very soothing. If you visit at sunset, you can also see the spectacular sight of the sun slowly sinking between the two rocks. It’s a beautiful beach view worth enjoying quietly.

Known as the backyard of Fukuoka locals, Itoshima offers a relaxing time by the coast even without a car. This time, I took a Showa Bus directly from Hakata Bus Terminal to Meoto Iwa, avoiding the hassle of transfers. Transportation was more convenient than I expected.

Before leaving, I recommend picking up some picnic snacks at Hakata Station, including a box of Nunu Chicken, a Hakata specialty that is especially crispy, sweet, and spicy when eaten cold. After arriving at Meoto Iwa, find a spot to sit on the beach. In front of you are a pure white torii gate standing in the deep blue water and the rocks connected by a shimenawa rope. Enjoy your picnic with the sea breeze and the sound of waves hitting the shore.

Since the coastal buses run on a fixed schedule, if you're not driving, you can do what I did and choose one or two places to explore at a leisurely pace. This time, I opted for afternoon tea at Itoshima Sabo, which faces the ocean. Since it was fall, I ordered the seasonal chestnut Mont Blanc, pairing its chestnut flavor with black coffee. I simply sat quietly by the window, cleared my mind while looking out at the sea, and enjoyed a carefree, slow-paced afternoon. In the evening, I leisurely took the bus back to bustling Hakata Station, feeling fully recharged in both body and mind.

If you have the chance to visit Yamaga Onsen, be sure to set aside time for Yachiyoza, the century-old wooden kabuki theater. For travelers who appreciate traditional culture, I recommend buying a combo ticket with the Yamaga Lantern Folk Art Museum directly at the ticket counter so you can take in the best of the town’s craftsmanship in one visit.

I was very lucky during this visit and happened to catch a local group rehearsing onstage. Watching the central revolving stage turn smoothly and change the scenery almost like magic, I was amazed but had no idea how it worked. After the rehearsal ended, I followed the narrow wooden stairs down into the secret basement beneath the stage. Only when I saw it with my own eyes was I deeply struck by the wisdom of the people who built it. The seemingly effortless movement onstage was powered entirely by people working together with all their strength to push a massive, heavy wooden axle in a dark, cramped space. It was genuinely moving.

Back on the tatami in the audience area, I found a comfortable corner and sat quietly. Looking up, I saw vintage advertisements for local businesses from a century ago painted across the ceiling. The wooden beams and pillars gave off a deep, tranquil scent of age, and every detail told of the prosperity that continued from the Edo period into the Meiji period. Being there was not only a feast for the eyes but also an immersion in authentic local culture. It was a truly rare cultural experience.