Amaterasu Railway | Review by 一個漸漸喜歡上慢旅的人

Driving along Aso’s winding mountain roads, I rounded a bend when Komezuka suddenly came into view like a giant pudding turned upside down. Its round, adorable volcanic cone shape instantly brought a smile to my face.

Several pullouts have thoughtfully been provided along the road, making it easy to park, get out, and quietly gaze at it. In autumn, Komezuka loses the lush green often seen online, and the entire hill dons a golden coat of Japanese pampas grass. The slightly indented crater at the top takes on a vast, tranquil, and desolate beauty.

It may not have the vitality of summer, but when the autumn wind blows through the golden pampas grass, the vastness and solitude of the landscape feel even more powerful. This autumn encounter, so different from the usual views, had a uniquely enchanting and soothing charm for me.

Kamishikimi Kumanoimasu Shrine, which became widely known because of the movie Into the Forest of Fireflies' Light, is tucked away in the woods of Minamiaso. This time, we made a special effort to drive from Kumamoto early in the morning and visit before the tour groups arrived, finally getting to enjoy this pure tranquility, as if entering another world, all to ourselves.

The mountain forest was shrouded in a light morning mist. As we slowly followed the approach, nearly a hundred moss-covered stone lanterns and towering cedar trees stood solemnly on both sides, steeped in a profound sense of history. After praying at the simple, unadorned shrine, don't forget to continue up the hillside behind it to see Ugeto Iwa, the legendary stone from mythology. Just as we turned around to head down the mountain, lively tour groups began pouring onto the steps, making us even more grateful that we had arrived early enough to experience that undisturbed, ethereal atmosphere.

After descending the mountain, I recommend stopping by Takamori Dengaku Hozonkai, where you can sit around a traditional sunken hearth and grill local dishes over charcoal. The Aso river fish, slowly grilled over charcoal, had crispy skin and tender meat. Paired with taro and tofu coated in rich miso, the flavors were simple yet unforgettable. When the warm and talkative owner heard that we were from Taiwan, he gave us an especially friendly welcome. As someone who loves food, I picked up a jar of the restaurant's homemade dengaku miso before leaving. Back in Taiwan, I can spread it on ingredients and lightly grill them anytime I want to relive those warm, pure local flavors.

Takachiho Gorge, formed over tens of thousands of years as lava from Mount Aso was eroded, truly lives up to its reputation as an internationally renowned natural wonder.

Although I had specifically reserved a boat ride online before setting out, it was unfortunately suspended when I arrived due to rising water levels. However, looking out from the elevated gorge trail and slowly experiencing the land on foot instead gave me a different perspective.

Looking down from above, the spectacular basalt columnar joints on both sides rise dozens of meters, straight and steep. Manai Falls, one of Japan's 100 most famous waterfalls, pours down between the cliffs like a ribbon of white silk, sending spray into the air. At noon, sunlight filters through the dense forest and falls on the deep emerald waters of the gorge. With light and shadow intermingling, it looks like a still ink-wash painting. Gazing at it for a long time brought an especially deep sense of peace and restoration to both body and mind.