Leaving Kumamoto and heading toward Aso, as the car slowly left the city, the view gradually opened up. The winding mountain road climbed upward, with rolling hills and endless emerald-green grasslands as far as the eye could see.
After arriving at Kusasenri, I couldn't wait to run onto the grassland as soon as the car was parked. The sky seemed so distant and high, and the grassland stretched endlessly. Visitors looked like tiny dots scattered everywhere, or strings of little dumplings, and I was one of them. The vast sky, the boundless wilderness, and cattle and horses appearing as the wind bent the grass—Kusasenri truly lives up to its name as a magnificent grassland. Walking across the grassland, the breeze was cool against my face. From a high vantage point, I could gaze at Mount Aso on one side and the vast grassland on the other. I couldn't help but marvel at the wonders of nature. Deep and light greens—dark green, yellow-green, emerald green, blue-green—all kinds of green shifted in the sunlight. So beautiful!
Back at the parking lot, there's no need to rush off. You can have a cup of coffee at Kusasenri Coffee Roastery and settle your thoughts, or browse the shop next door and stock up for your journey.
Kusasenri | Review by 周黛西
Other Reviews by 周黛西
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Komezuka
Komezuka, a cone-shaped volcano, is located at the base of Kishimadake, one of the central peaks of Mount Aso's five peaks. This small mountain stands about 80 meters high and is believed to have been formed by an eruption around 3,300 years ago. The slopes are covered with grasslands, turning a vibrant green from spring to summer. In autumn, the slopes glow golden with susuki (Japanese pampas grass), and in winter, they are beautifully blanketed in snow.
On the way back, among the many hills, we looked for a small mountain shaped like an upside-down bowl called “Komezuka.” Komezuka has a cute conical shape and is covered in lush green, making it look like matcha pudding. It also resembles Taiwan’s “Matcha Mountain.”
You can’t just park along the road, so we could only admire it from afar, but its distinctive appearance has left a deep impression on me. -
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Sakuranobaba Josaien
This multipurpose culture and tourism facility serves as an outdoor recreation of a Kumamoto Castle hill at the foot the mountain. Here you’ll find Kumamoto’s local gourmet, plenty of shopping and a chance to dive into the history of Kumamoto’s history.
On the way up to Kato Shrine, you'll pass through a lively place—Sakuranobaba Josaien. This area is bustling with people. Many restaurants are scattered throughout, including famous local Kumamoto cuisine and branches of long-established traditional shops, allowing visitors to sample authentic horse sashimi, mustard-stuffed lotus root, and all kinds of local specialties in one place. The “Jindaiko Ice Cream” is made by Kumamoto's well-known confectionery shop Okashi no Kobai, combining the local specialty “Homare no Jindaiko” with rich milk to create soft-serve ice cream. I watched the staff skillfully cut the Jindaiko into small pieces and put them into the machine. Before long, a cold soft-serve cone appeared, blending a milky aroma with smooth red bean paste and soft, chewy mochi. It was sweet and smooth, perfect for a hot summer day.
In the center of Josaien is a covered outdoor stage. From time to time, several performers dressed as samurai, known as the “Kumamoto Castle Hospitality Warlords,” weave through the crowd and kindly pose for photos with visitors. What left a strong impression on me was a charming “town girl” who spoke fluent Chinese and had a delightful conversation with some travelers who were also from Taiwan. At the Kumamoto Castle Museum Wakuwakuza, visitors can explore the history of Kumamoto Castle through virtual reality tours and projection mapping experiences, take part in activities depicting everyday life during the Edo period and the lives of high-ranking officials and nobles, and uncover the secrets behind the castle's construction.
Sakuranobaba Josaien has a fantastical feeling where past and present intersect, along with a nostalgic sense of traveling through time. It's a great place for the whole family to come and join the fun. -
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Kato Shrine at Kumamoto Castle
This shrine enshrines Kato Kiyomasa (1562-1611) as its principal deity. He was active as a Sengoku warlord and, in the Edo period (1603-1868), ruled Higo Province as the first lord of the Kumamoto Domain, earning the affectionate nickname “Seishoko-san” among the people. It stands in the Honmaru (the castle’s main bailey) of Kumamoto Castle, one of Japan’s Three Great Castles, which Kiyomasa built.
Kumamoto Castle, which is currently being restored, is scheduled to open on August 13. Since I was already there, I took a detour through the grounds of Kato Shrine to admire the majestic keep of Kumamoto Castle from a different angle.
To the right of the approach to the worship hall stands a towering sacred tree. A small shrine and a tiny torii gate have been placed where the trunk splits, giving it a divine presence. The sacred tree symbolizes that the gods are everywhere, inspiring people to feel gratitude and faith toward all things in the world.
Kato Shrine primarily enshrines Kato Kiyomasa, a renowned general of the Sengoku period who also built Kumamoto Castle. Combining this famous warrior with the widely beloved Kumamon resulted in Samurai Kumamon. Seeing the usually cheerful Kumamon with a serious expression for the first time made me see him in a whole new light and filled me with admiration.
Kato Shrine really isn't very large, but I loved its tranquil atmosphere. After visiting the main hall, you'll find the shrine office nearby filled with all kinds of amulets, ema plaques, and goshuin stamps. You might want to choose one for yourself, with the hope that the gods' blessings will make your wishes come true and your dreams take flight. -
