If, like me, you visit Kurokawa Onsen by car in the fall, you'll have a different kind of experience. Even though the weather didn't cooperate and a steady drizzle began to fall, it didn't dampen my enthusiasm at all. Wisps of white steam from the hot springs blended with the layers of misty mountains in the distance, giving this secluded mountain town a dreamlike veil of tranquility.
I recommend parking at the tourist information center first. Travelers who want to fully experience the various open-air baths can buy the signature wooden “Nyuto Tegata” bathing pass here. This time, I chose to slow down and explore the town, wandering through alleys lined with dark wooden buildings and trying the popular local pudding, which was sweet, rich, and silky smooth. It filled me with happiness.
In the slightly chilly air after the rain, I was delighted to come across a free footbath with a warm charcoal fire (Ikoi Ryokan Footbath). The moment I dipped my feet into the steaming hot spring water, my whole body warmed up. I loved that heartwarming moment of casually chatting with travelers from different places and warming our hands around the charcoal fire. The nearby hot spring inn also had unattended, honor-system hot spring eggs. You simply put in some coins and scoop out a piping-hot, soft-cooked treat, full of the simple charm of this small town. If you enjoy immersing yourself in the slow pace of an authentic Japanese hot spring town, Kurokawa Onsen is definitely worth a special trip.
