A Ferry Lover’s Obsessive Travel Guide, by and for Ferry Lovers: The Appeal of Ferry Travel and 14 Recommended Routes

From Hokkaido, I will introduce two ferries that arrive at and depart from Tomakomai West Port Ferry Terminal.
The first is Silver Ferry, which connects Tomakomai and Hachinohe. It operates four sailings a day with a fleet of four ships. Among them, I recommend a ship called Silver Tiara, which departs at 11:59 pm.
In addition to the ship itself being relatively new and clean, I like that it has forward-facing view seats. They are seats like premium seats with a clear view ahead, so you can watch the sky gradually brighten as night turns into morning. Because it departs late at night, the stars also look incredibly beautiful.

Tomakomai West Port Ferry Terminal is like a northern sacred place for ferry fans. The sight of Silver Ferry, Taiheiyo Ferry, and MOL Sunflower ships docked at the same time is absolutely irresistible. If you walk about 10 minutes, there is a small park called Irifune Park, where you can watch docking and undocking scenes up close.

The second recommendation is the evening service of MOL Sunflower, Sunflower Sapporo and Sunflower Furano. It departs Tomakomai at 6:45 pm and arrives in Oarai, Ibaraki Prefecture, at 2:00 pm the next day.
A little less than an hour after departure, it passes close to the late-night service heading into Tomakomai. There is no special announcement, and the ships do not sound their whistles. They simply pass each other quietly, so it feels like something only people in the know are aware of. Many ship fans look forward to it, and at that moment, the deck is full of nothing but enthusiasts.
It depends on the sea conditions that day, but when they pass close by, they can be close enough that you can see the people on the other ship.

For Tohoku, my pick is Tsugaru Kaikyo Ferry, which arrives at and departs from Aomori Port. There is also a route connecting Oma and Hakodate, but I often use either the Aomori to Muroran route or the Aomori to Hakodate route. Although the distance is not especially long, there are surprisingly solid private cabins, and the prices are not that high. There are also discounts for foot passengers, so I think it is easy to use casually.
There is no restaurant, so meals are the type where you enjoy vending machine meals. Because it is geared toward drivers, the portions are large and filling. The rice balls, for example, come in a pack of two huge ones with butter on top. Wondering what to eat is also a lot of fun.

Kanto is also very hard to choose from, so please let me introduce two options.
The first is Ocean Tokyu Ferry, a long-distance route that runs from Ariake in Tokyo to Shinmoji in Kitakyushu via Tokushima. It is one of the few ferries that arrive at and depart from Tokyo, and among long-distance ferries, it is the only one that passes under Tokyo Gate Bridge. I love passing under bridges by ferry, so I always watch from the deck or from a window.
This ferry also has no restaurant and is the type where you enjoy vending machine meals. Unlike other hospitality-focused ferries, it mostly leaves you alone, so I recommend it to people who like something a little more understated and rugged.
You can get off at Tokushima, but if you are going to ride it, I hope you continue all the way to Shinmoji and enjoy the 1,151 km ferry journey over 3 days and 2 nights.

The second Kanto recommendation is Tokyo Wan Ferry, a short-distance route. It cuts straight across Uraga Channel and connects Kanaya in Chiba Prefecture with Kurihama in Kanagawa Prefecture in about 40 minutes one way.
Uraga Channel is a golden route for ships, with many different vessels traveling to and from Tokyo, Yokohama, Yokosuka, and other ports. Tokyo Wan Ferry itself is not such a large ship, but you can see giant 300-meter-class vessels passing right in front of you, which is irresistible for ship lovers.
Because Kurihama, the departure and arrival point, is close to Yokosuka, the onboard shop sells navy-inspired curry bread. It is fun to have it warmed up, eat it on the outside deck, and look out over the sea. If the weather is good, you can see Mt. Fuji beautifully.

Kanaya Port Ferry Terminal is small, but it has a wide selection and sells all kinds of delicious items. My recommendation is the Ryoshi Burger, or Fisherman’s Burger, which sandwiches a thick piece of fried horse mackerel made with local fish in a fluffy bun. They serve it freshly fried, so it is really delicious. I buy and enjoy it every time.

Since we are here, let me add one more from Kanto. This is Tokyo Kyusyu Ferry, which connects Yokosuka and Shinmoji. Kurihama and Yokosuka are close enough that you can travel between them quickly by train. After riding Tokyo Wan Ferry and arriving at Kurihama, you can also enjoy a ferry-hopping trip by boarding Tokyo Kyusyu Ferry and heading straight for Kyushu.

I also like Yokosuka Ferry Terminal for Tokyo Kyusyu Ferry. Nearby, there is Memorial Ship Mikasa, one of the world’s three great memorial ships, which preserves and exhibits the battleship Mikasa, once the flagship of the Combined Fleet. You can enjoy scenery and an atmosphere unique to Yokosuka, a port city with a naval history. Oh, and I recently heard a rumor that the mixed juice at the cafe inside the terminal is incredibly delicious. I am definitely going to try it the next time I ride.

I have two favorites in Chubu, but first I will introduce the ferry I fell in love with at first sight. It is Ishikari by Taiheiyo Ferry, which runs from Nagoya to Tomakomai via Sendai. This was the first long-distance ferry I encountered, and Ishikari has always felt special to me.
With the concept of “the brilliance of the Aegean Sea,” the interior is luxurious throughout. I love it because it gives me a sense of spaciousness and composure as a ship. The public spaces include a glass-walled observation elevator and even a transparent grand piano.
Another reason I recommend this route is that it passes under Meiko Triton, a bridge complex.
When the ship passes under it at departure, it makes me feel like the journey has begun, and when returning from Hokkaido, I feel sad, as if the trip is ending. It feels like a switching point in the journey, making my mood rise and fall.
Taiheiyo Ferry’s sister-ship parallel sailing is another highlight. Ships sail close to each other, sounding their whistles and waving to one another. It gives the journey a sense of travel romance that can only be experienced on a ship, and I really love it.
Incidentally, this route is 1,330 km one way and takes about 40 hours over 3 days and 2 nights, making it the longest in Japan. You can also temporarily disembark in Sendai, so it is fun to stroll around or go shopping there, then continue toward Hokkaido while eating local Sendai specialties.

The second Chubu recommendation is Suruga Bay Ferry, which connects Shimizu Port, counted as one of Japan’s three most beautiful ports, with Toi Port in Nishi-Izu, known as a base for maritime transport and coastal fishing.
The ship is named Fuji, and just as the name suggests, it offers excellent views of Mt. Fuji. The spectacular view stretching from Mt. Fuji’s summit to its foothills and the coastline is moving no matter how many times you see it.
On the deck, there is an interesting sign for Prefectural Road 223, pronounced like Fujisan, and if you take a photo with Mt. Fuji in the background, it is sure to look great. Incidentally, this route is said to have been designated by Shizuoka Prefecture as Prefectural Road 223.
At the onboard cafe, they also sell gelato and baumkuchen inspired by the ocean blue of Suruga Bay.

I am still exploring ferries in Hokuriku, but I have one recommendation. They are Suzuran and Suisen by Shin Nihonkai Ferry, which connect Tsuruga Port in Fukui Prefecture with Tomakomai East Port in Hokkaido. The ships of Shin Nihonkai Ferry are each named after flowers, and signs with flower illustrations are displayed throughout the ship, which is very cute.
I have not ridden them many times yet, but I like departing from Tsuruga while looking at other ships because it has a feeling similar to Tomakomai. The atmosphere of leaving behind a port that feels like an industrial area gives me a sense of melancholy.
Then, as the ship approaches Hokkaido, gradually passing other ferries gives the journey a sense of travel romance, which has stayed with me.

Kansai is also truly hard to choose from, but I will recommend Orange Ferry. There are several points I love, so let me go through them in order.
First, the terminal is right near the nearest station at Osaka Nanko Port, so access is extremely convenient. Meimon Taiyo Ferry is also right next door, so you can enjoy looking at ships too.
Next, the food is delicious. In particular, Uwajima taimeshi, a local sea bream rice dish from Ehime Prefecture, is so delicious that my ship friends say, “Orange Ferry’s version is better than eating it locally.”
It also has many private cabins with windows. In general, single private cabins for one person are often placed inside the ship and do not have windows. But on Orange Ferry, if you book a Deluxe Single private cabin, you can spend your time in a cabin with a window. When traveling by ship, whether or not you have a window really matters. The price is not that much higher than a windowless private cabin, so I definitely recommend trying a single private cabin with a window.
Also, you can bring a bicycle into the room, which makes it convenient for cycling the Shimanami Kaido.

This is not directly related to Orange Ferry, but the terminal used by MOL Sunflower is also nearby, and from Osaka Nanko ATC, you can clearly see Sunflower ships. I also have fond memories of watching Sunflower ships arrive and depart from a nearby hotel, practically glued to the view.
Inside ATC, there is also Funesiru, a ship museum operated by Sunflower. The ship goods sold there are incredibly cute.

From Chugoku and Shikoku, I will first recommend SEA PASEO by Setonaikai Kisen. It is a ferry that travels from Hiroshima to Matsuyama via Kure, with 10 round-trip regular sailings a day.
Its exterior is so distinctive that when I first saw it, I wondered, “Is this really a ferry?” I think its structure and design are possible precisely because it runs on the calm waters of the Seto Inland Sea. The food menu is delicious, the non-alcoholic drink menu is extensive, and everything feels stylish. It is truly wonderful.
Inside the ship, there are panoramic sofa seats arranged in a stepped layout, and on the deck, there are about six gazebo-like pavilions placed here and there. I tried sitting in every seat to see how comfortable they were, and every one was excellent. I highly recommend it.

The other recommendation from Chugoku and Shikoku is Jumbo Ferry, which runs between Takamatsu, Shodoshima, and Kobe. Among its services, I especially love the late-night departure from Takamatsu.
Like other ferries, it has a special appeal because it is an overnight ferry designed to arrive at the destination early in the morning. On the way to Kobe, it runs alongside other large long-distance ferries that departed from places such as Shinmoji, and it may pass under Akashi Kaikyo Bridge at the same timing. From a place where I can enjoy the front view, I keep looking through binoculars, thinking, “Is there a ship somewhere?” I like searching for and finding the lights of ships in the darkness.
The premium area on the new ship Aoi has an observation bath and a foot bath, so I definitely recommend upgrading to premium. The guilty pleasure of taking a bath or foot bath late at night is simply irresistible.

For Kyushu and Okinawa, I recommend Marix Line and A''LINE Ferry, which run from Kagoshima to Okinawa Island via the Amami Islands.
It is a unique ferry route that feels like it combines the best parts of a long-distance route and a remote-island route. I enjoy watching up close as the ship calls at various ports and loads and unloads containers. When I see goats and cows on board, it does hurt my heart a little, though.
As the ship heads toward Okinawa, you can also clearly see the color of the sea changing. I think this is a deeply moving experience that you cannot feel by airplane.
Also worth noting is the 14-day unlimited-ride pass sold by Marix Line and A''LINE Ferry. It is a great-value and interesting plan that allows you to get on and off freely at other islands between Kagoshima and Naha for 30,000 yen. The basic setting is a second-class large shared sleeping room, but if there is availability, you can upgrade to a private cabin for an additional fee. I have not tried it yet, but I have an ambition to someday spend a full 14 days traveling entirely by ship.

We are finally at the last one. Kyushu has the sacred place of Shinmoji, so this was truly hard to choose. I love all of them equally, but I will recommend Meimon Taiyo Ferry, which connects Kitakyushu Shinmoji Port and Osaka Nanko Port and which I rode just the other day.
In both directions, there are two sailings a day: one departing at 5:00 pm and arriving at 5:30 am, and another departing at 7:50 pm and arriving at 8:30 am. I rode the second sailing with the later departure. At departure, all the ships leaving Shinmoji had already departed, so I could not look at other ships, but on arrival, Orange Ferry and the first Meimon Taiyo Ferry service were docked at Osaka Nanko Port ahead of us, so I was able to gaze at them to my heart’s content.
One reason I recommend Meimon Taiyo Ferry is that the fares are relatively affordable even for private cabins. Another point is that the buffet food is extremely delicious. The menu was wide-ranging and tasty, including Mojiko specialty baked curry and Sanuki udon noodles.