Sip, Savor, and Connect in Shimanto: Visit Mutemuka, Home of Dabada Hiburi Chestnut Shochu

Mutemuka originally made sake, and local chestnuts inspired its move into chestnut shochu. At the time, the upper Shimanto River basin produced an abundance of chestnuts, but some were difficult to market. Local people approached the brewery to ask whether those chestnuts could be used to make shochu. Mutemuka took up the challenge, obtaining a shochu production license in 1984 (Showa 59) and beginning sales of chestnut shochu the following year, in 1985 (Showa 60). Today’s Dabada Hiburi grew out of that effort to put the region’s chestnuts to good use.

Making Dabada Hiburi also supports local agriculture. The residue left after distilling the chestnut shochu is returned to rice paddies as organic fertilizer. The brewery workers also make bokashi, a fermented organic fertilizer, to supplement its nutrients. Rice grown under contract by local farmers is then used to make sake. By using a by-product of chestnut shochu production to grow rice, and then making sake from that rice, Mutemuka has created a local cycle. These efforts reflect its commitment to making the most of local ingredients without waste.

Production of Dabada Hiburi usually begins around September. The brewery is equipped for making the chestnut shochu, with production equipment and storage tanks inside and a bottling plant on the grounds. Sake production follows around October, as the brewery makes different drinks with the changing seasons.

The shop attached to the brewery stocks Dabada Hiburi and a variety of other drinks made by Mutemuka. A highlight is Shimanto Mysterious Reserve, named for the area and aged for 40,100 hours in an underground tunnel storehouse. Tastings are available, so you can discover how aging shapes its flavor before choosing a bottle. The selection also includes treats such as Dabada Hiburi Baum, a baumkuchen cake made with Dabada Hiburi. After seeing where the drinks are made, browsing bottles and other products created in the area is another pleasure of visiting the brewery.

About a three-minute walk from the brewery is the Shimanto River Shochu Bank. Housed in a former local bank, this unusual facility retains the original vault and counter. Here, you can try Yochochu: depositing chestnut shochu to age instead of depositing money. Chestnut shochu made with at least 75% chestnuts and available only here is placed in jars and aged in the bank’s former vault. When you open an account, you receive a passbook and can choose an aging period of one, two, or three years. In another bank-inspired touch, you receive a small bottle as “interest” each year. Rather than simply buying a bottle to take home, you leave your shochu in Shimanto to develop over time. Returning to collect the aged drink is part of this experience in the region where it is made.

Chestnut shochu might sound sweet, but Dabada Hiburi is characterized by a clean mouthfeel and the naturally mellow flavor of chestnuts. Its mild character complements food without overpowering it, making it easy to pair with fish, meat, vegetables, and more. At Nondeya, try it with dishes typical of Kochi and Shimanto, such as seared bonito or shiitake mushroom tataki.

After discovering chestnut shochu through Dabada Hiburi, try another version from Mutemuka. DABADA ITALIANO uses chestnuts from Italy, one of the world’s leading chestnut-producing countries. It has a distinctive toasty aroma and makes a light, refreshing drink when mixed with soda water. At Nondeya, we paired it with deep-fried moray eel, a Kochi specialty. Enjoy a refreshing glass with soda water alongside the crisp coating and firm, springy texture of the moray eel.

After trying the chestnut shochu, turn to sake, which is where Mutemuka’s story began. The brewery also produces sake using rice grown in partnership with local farmers. We tried Mutemuka Junmai Ginjo, made with sake rice from Shimanto Town polished to 55% of its original weight. Slightly dry with a clean finish, it pairs well with fish dishes. At Nondeya, we enjoyed it with seared bonito, one of Kochi’s signature regional dishes. The pairing brings together locally made sake and a taste of Kochi’s food culture.

Start with a visit to Mutemuka to see where Dabada Hiburi is made and learn the story behind it. After the tour, walk around Taisho, then head to Nondeya in the evening to join the local crowd. Over Dabada Hiburi and regional dishes, discover not only the drinks but also the people and everyday life of the area.

The day after discovering the story behind Dabada Hiburi at the brewery, explore places around Taisho recommended by its makers. The Shimanto River stretches for 196 km and has long been known as “Japan’s last pristine river,” partly because there are no large dams on its main course. Taisho lies along its middle reaches, in an area of abundant natural beauty where the Shimanto and Yusuhara rivers meet. Nearby sights include Ittohyo Submersible Bridge and Mukaiyama Bridge (Kamioka Submersible Bridge). Cycling, canoeing, rafting, and other activities offer ways to get closer to the natural environment that gave rise to Dabada Hiburi.