Holly's Reviews Page 7/8

Osaka Kizu Wholesale Market mainly serves restaurant industry professionals and local residents. Inside, you’ll find seafood, fruits and vegetables, dried goods, and eateries. The sections are clearly organized, and the market is cleaner than I expected.

Aside from popular dining spots serving seafood bowls and other dishes, many fresh items are now sold in smaller portions, so travelers can easily buy something too. There’s also a dining area on-site. Since most shops start closing up around noon, I’d recommend going between 8 and 10 in the morning to have the best selection of fresh foods.

What I felt most after walking around was that this place constantly makes you choose between “I want to eat” and “I want to buy.” If you start with a seafood bowl at one of the popular shops around the market, you won’t have room for the seafood inside. But if you buy seafood inside the market first, it’s hard to try many different items at once, especially when you’re visiting alone. At moments like that, I really wished my stomach were bigger.

I first stopped by a nearby kissaten for a classic Nagoya breakfast, so I decided to walk into Tokugawaen afterward. To my surprise, I happened to catch a winter peony exhibition. I honestly didn’t expect to see so many peonies in winter. Their delicate petals were layered beautifully, and the colors were so rich. After seeing them all, I understood why people in the past were so fascinated by peonies.

I also happened to come across a nagashi-bina ceremony, which added movement and life to the otherwise quiet Hinamatsuri atmosphere. I didn’t expect to see this ceremony anywhere other than Shimogamo Shrine, and this one even allowed the general public to participate. Unfortunately, I didn’t have time to join because I wanted to see the hina dolls at the art museum.

I had assumed a winter garden would feel plain, but the waterfall, water features, and peonies made the garden feel alive even in winter. It also helped me understand what books mean when they describe how daimyo gardens reflected control over technique, resources, and space.

I originally came because I was drawn to the Owari Tokugawa family's hina doll exhibition. But once I stepped inside, what impressed me most was the Noh stage. It was so huge that even an ultra-wide-angle lens could barely capture it all.

The tea rooms, study rooms, and artifacts are also reassembled in a way that helps fill in the missing atmosphere of the Honmaru Palace at Nagoya Castle. This museum doesn't just place cultural objects behind glass. It lets you see how they originally existed within samurai family life.

Even after political power has faded, these artifacts still carry on the lingering glow of the Tokugawa family through the way they are displayed in the space.

I originally just wanted to make a pilgrimage to see the century-old wooden molds for wagashi, but the experience ended up being much richer than I expected. From shibugami and rakugan wooden molds to kinka-to, a type of sugar confection unique to the Hokuriku region, I was able to fill in a lot of knowledge I had only seen in bits and pieces in books. I also truly came to understand that the value of these wooden molds isn’t just in the carving, but also in the careful attention paid to selecting the wood, drying it, and preserving it.

What surprised me the most was the display of confectionery plates from the Meiji, Taisho, and Showa eras. The Taisho-era pieces, especially those with Western-style and romantic influences, made me stop and look closely at almost every single one. That section alone made the visit completely worth it. In the tea ceremony, confectionery plates are usually supporting players, but here they became the sole stars of the show.

After the visit, I went to the dining area next door and enjoyed a fresh wagashi with yellow bean paste, Kaga bocha, and kuzukiri. The mother-of-pearl lacquer tray and Kutani ware also made the whole experience feel even more distinctly Kanazawa. I hadn’t planned on buying souvenirs, but after seeing the video showing how Choseiden is made, I couldn’t resist and bought a small box to take back to Taiwan. Once I tried it after returning home, I was amazed by its light, crisp texture that quickly melted away. I immediately regretted not buying a bigger box QQ

Kiunkaku was bigger than I expected, and there was more to see than I had imagined. The Japanese-style corridors were quiet and bright, while the Western-style building’s stained glass and Roman bath were elegant without feeling gaudy. The two styles worked together surprisingly well. Personally, I thought they were the highlights of Kiunkaku.

I especially loved the stained glass. Even by today’s standards, it still feels timeless.

The café near the exit serves coffee and wagashi. The sofa was beautiful, but a little hard to sit on, so I ended up moving over near the counter. Unexpectedly, the retro space matched the colors of my kimono that day, and I got my favorite photo from the whole trip there.

Overall, the building is very well preserved. It isn’t just sealed off as an exhibit, either. You can see that it’s still being used, with classes offered for local residents, which makes it feel like the old building is truly still alive.

Atami Plum Garden has nearly 60 varieties and more than 470 plum trees. Each tree has a sign showing its variety. The blooming season runs from January through March, and if you time it right, you can enjoy them together with the Atami cherry blossoms.

There are walking paths and five bridges set along the valley stream. During the Plum Festival, there are food stalls and performances, but since the garden is so spacious, it still feels comfortable and pleasant for flower viewing despite the lively atmosphere.

Seeing all the different plum blossoms here also made it easier for me afterward to tell the difference between plum blossoms and cherry blossoms.

Izusan Shrine is located on the mountainside in Atami. After climbing the approach, you can get a view of Sagami Bay.

The shrine is now famous for the matchmaking legend of Minamoto no Yoritomo and Hojo Masako, but what drew me in even more were the red and white twin dragons on the grounds. The whole twin-dragon concept feels super powerful. Especially with the dragon on the goshuin stamp, it just has a different kind of energy.

There’s also a weeping cherry tree on the grounds. Unfortunately, I didn’t visit at the right time. Based on the map reviews and photos, it looks beautiful when it’s in bloom.

What I found most fun was the “inome” treasure hunt. I thought it would be hard to find them, but after unexpectedly spotting one through my camera, I realized they were pretty easy to look for. Since inome are said to bring good luck, I felt pretty lucky that I was able to find them all before leaving.

Kinomiya Shrine is an important guardian shrine in the Atami area and the head shrine of all Kinomiya shrines nationwide. It gets very crowded on holidays, and you can really feel the authority of the head shrine.

The grounds are famous for the great sacred camphor tree, which is said to be over 2,000 years old. They say that walking around it once can add one year to your life. There is also a slightly smaller camphor tree that is still over 100 years old. Both were stunning to see because the sacred trees are so impressive.

The shrine office is also very modern, with a vibe like a stylish shop in Ginza. In addition to charms, they have many fresh and creative designs for matchmaking items. I told myself I wouldn’t buy anything, but I still couldn’t resist bringing one home.

What was a little special this time was that the fortune I drew at the shrine was unexpectedly accurate. It gave me a small sense of good luck for the rest of my trip.

I mainly came for the Zoshigaya Handmade Market, which is held at Kishimojin-do and Otori Shrine. All the items are sold directly by the creators, with none of those wholesale-type goods. Walking around feels like visiting a lifestyle craft exhibition, and every stall has its own personality.

I have to say, the old temple buildings, the thousand-year-old ginkgo tree, and the artisan booths come together to create a truly unique scene. On market days, Kishimojin-do has a completely different atmosphere from its usual day-to-day look.

Hidden within the grounds is Kamikawaguchiya, an old-fashioned candy shop founded in 1781. You can also try the limited-edition grilled dango from Habutae Dango at Daikokudo. Aside from market days, this dango is only available on weekends. If you happen to come across it, I highly recommend giving it a try.

Toraya was founded in Kyoto and once served as a confectioner to the Imperial Palace. Their signature items are definitely the yokan and red bean paste.

The Akasaka branch has a warm, open atmosphere, with a low-rise building, large glass windows, and a wood-toned interior. It really elevates the whole wagashi experience.

For wagashi lovers, if you have the time to come here, you absolutely should. Try the seasonal flavors. My only regret is that my stomach wasn’t big enough to order everything.