Holly's Reviews Page 8/11

What I most wanted to see was the sunrise between the Meoto Iwa. This view isn't visible year-round, only around May to July each year, with the best time being around the summer solstice. If you're lucky and the weather and visibility are good enough, you may even see the distant Mount Fuji overlapping with the rising sun.
However, the biggest problem with seeing the sunrise is transportation. Sunrise is very early, and it's basically impossible to get there from central Ise by public transportation. The more practical option is to stay near Futamiura the night before, but accommodations in the area are limited. Since my trip was very last-minute, I couldn't find anywhere I liked, so I had to give up on the sunrise for now. Instead, I went to worship in the afternoon and also visited the nearby Hinjitsukan, which was originally a lodging for members of Japan's Imperial Family when they visited Ise Jingu. I have to say, a royal inn really does have a different presence.

Ise Jingu is mainly divided into the Outer Shrine and Inner Shrine. The traditional order of worship is “Outer Shrine first, then Inner Shrine,” but if you only have time for a day trip, most travelers usually prioritize the livelier Inner Shrine, since afterward they can go straight to Okage Yokocho. However, the Outer Shrine is closer to Iseshi Station and can be reached on foot. Since there are fewer visitors, walking among the tall trees in the sacred grounds is very relaxing. Compared with the liveliness of the Inner Shrine, the Outer Shrine feels quieter and more serene, allowing you to better sense the gentleness of the deities.
I also highly recommend the Sengukan Museum next to the Outer Shrine. It explains the Shikinen Sengu ceremony, which takes place every 20 years. What makes it especially interesting is the full-scale model of the Outer Shrine’s main sanctuary. Since visitors cannot approach the innermost area of the main sanctuary during an actual visit, seeing the model in the museum helped me better understand the true scale and architectural details of the deities’ dwelling. There are also many exhibits on the tools and craftsmanship used during the rebuilding ceremony. If you are not in a hurry, there are videos to watch as well. I really recommend it.
The Inner Shrine is larger and draws more worshippers than the Outer Shrine. After crossing Uji Bridge, you walk along the Isuzu River toward the main sanctuary, and the entire experience feels more ceremonial. The routes going in and coming back are separated, mainly because the worship route at the Inner Shrine is quite long. Getting there is not a problem, but on the way back I was truly grateful for the Sanshuden rest area. When you get tired, you can sit down and rest, and free drinking water is available inside. There are vending machines if you want another drink, and you can also purchase amulets and other shrine items here.
If your schedule allows, I still highly recommend visiting both the Outer Shrine and Inner Shrine in the traditional order. The Inner Shrine is more impressive and lively, with Okage Yokocho nearby to explore, while the Outer Shrine is much quieter. I actually preferred its forest atmosphere and feeling of worship. The two have completely different atmospheres and character, and only after visiting both can you get a fuller sense of Ise Jingu.
One reminder: the Inner Shrine has coin-operated luggage lockers, but the Outer Shrine does not, so keep that in mind if you have luggage. When I visited, I saw a traveler who had no way to store their luggage and had to drag it along. Since the sacred grounds are covered with gravel, it looked quite difficult.

If you like antiques, secondhand kimono, vintage household items, or flea markets full of everyday character, the market at Shitennoji Temple in Osaka is worth planning a special trip for. While researching, I found that there are markets on both the 21st and 22nd. I originally thought they would be about the same, but after visiting, I found clear differences in the crowds, number of stalls, and overall atmosphere.
The Daishi-e on the 21st is the largest. It has almost everything, including antiques, vintage items, secondhand kimono, clothing, household goods, and food stalls. The temple grounds are packed with stalls and people, like a large flea market combined with a festival. The atmosphere is lively and energetic, but it's also more crowded, so you may not always be able to stop and look closely at something you like. To see everything, it's best to allow at least half a day, or even plan to spend the entire day there.
The Taishi-e on the 22nd has a completely different feel. The first time I went, I briefly wondered if the event had been canceled because the crowd was so much smaller than on the 21st. You can sense the difference even on the way there. After shopping there twice, I feel this is probably what the Taishi-e is normally like. Although there isn't as much variety as on the 21st, there are still plenty of antiques, vintage items, and secondhand goods. Without the crowds pushing around you, you can take your time and make several rounds. However, there are far fewer food vendors, so I recommend bringing some snacks just in case.
Although the 22nd is less crowded, I actually bought even more things that day than on the 21st. I think it's probably because my view wasn't constantly blocked by people, and I could crouch down and slowly look through the old items laid out on cloth, making it easier to find things I truly liked. I've found reasonably priced Edo Kiriko glassware, vintage tableware, and a maxi dress that suited me here. I had more fun treasure hunting than on the 21st.
If you want a lively market with a full range of stalls and a festival-like atmosphere, I recommend going on the 21st. If you prefer quietly hunting for treasures and don't want to squeeze through crowds, the 22nd is actually more comfortable. Each day's market has its own appeal. For anyone who likes antiques, kimono, and vintage items, Shitennoji Temple is worth a special trip for a leisurely visit, no matter which day you happen to go.

Achi Shrine is located on Mt. Tsurugata next to the Kurashiki Bikan Historical Quarter. Getting there from the foot of the mountain requires walking up a slope or stone steps. If you don't want to climb too many steps right away, I recommend taking the gentler slope from the shopping street, then heading down the front stone steps. It's an easier walk, and you'll also pass the wisteria area along the way. The wisteria blooms in early May and is one of Achi Shrine's most famous sights. Unfortunately, I visited twice and missed the full bloom both times. I missed the flowering season the first time, and on my second visit, I also happened to miss the limited-edition goshuin and exhibition, which left me a little disappointed.
The shrine's charms and other items are also very distinctive, such as the delicately crafted Hanamatoi charms in soft colors and the original “Irohaura” fortunes. The paper, illustrations, and color combinations used for the fortunes are very beautiful, making them nice keepsakes even after you've drawn one.
After visiting the shrine, you can look back over the streets of Kurashiki from the higher ground nearby. The view isn't especially expansive, but you can see the white walls, black roof tiles, and streets intersecting below. Although I prefer the view from Kuniyoshi-kan, the scenery from Achi Shrine is also lovely.

I took a ninja-themed high-speed ferry from Chubu Centrair International Airport to Tsu, then caught a taxi from Tsu Port. The shopping streets around Tsukannon Temple were quite quiet, completely unlike the lively areas around Sensoji Temple and Osu Kannon. Once inside the temple grounds, however, the vermilion five-story pagoda, main hall, Kannon statue, and ceiling paintings were all impressive, lending the temple an even more solemn atmosphere.
The decorations and ceiling paintings inside the main hall are also worth examining closely. The colorful celestial maiden paintings on the ceiling add a gentle, sacred feeling to the space. Other details include a dragon-shaped purification fountain, elements related to devotion to Kobo Daishi, and rubbing stones associated with the pilgrimage. They would be easy to miss on a quick visit.
The biggest surprise for me was the intricate paper-cut goshuin featuring patterns from the five-story pagoda’s murals. Its design draws from paintings and decorations inside the pagoda that are normally difficult to see. It is ornate yet dignified. I usually keep paper mementos from my travels in my journal, but this goshuin felt too special for that, so I chose to display it separately on my desk.
Tsukannon Temple may not be the liveliest temple, but it is where I most strongly felt a sense of peace and solemnity. Of the three major Kannon temples, this was the most personal and memorable stop for me.

The KANSAI WIDE AREA PASS is ideal for traveling between cities such as Kyoto, Osaka, Himeji, Okayama, and Kurashiki. However, you should calculate your actual itinerary beforehand to determine whether it will save you money. On this trip, I traveled from Kyoto to Okayama and also visited Himeji and Kurashiki, so the pass did reduce my overall transportation costs.
The most confusing part is the Shinkansen coverage. The pass covers the Sanyo Shinkansen between Shin-Osaka and Okayama. However, the Tokaido Shinkansen between Kyoto and Shin-Osaka is operated by JR Central and is not included. To travel from Kyoto to Okayama, take a Special Rapid train on the JR Kyoto Line to Shin-Osaka, then transfer to the Sanyo Shinkansen.
There is another important point to keep in mind when visiting Kurashiki. Shin-Kurashiki Station is not the closest station to the Kurashiki Bikan Historical Quarter, and the pass's Shinkansen coverage ends at Okayama. Traveling to Shin-Kurashiki requires paying the fare difference, followed by another transfer back to Kurashiki, so it is not any more convenient. The easiest option is to take the Shinkansen to Okayama, then transfer to the JR Sanyo Main Line for Kurashiki Station.
Overall, the pass offers an extensive travel area and access to the Sanyo Shinkansen. The downside is that the route restrictions are not as intuitive as they appear on the map. Once you understand that the Shinkansen between Kyoto and Shin-Osaka is excluded, as well as the difference between Shin-Kurashiki and Kurashiki stations, the pass is quite convenient to use.

I wasn't particularly interested in Nagoya Castle until I learned that the city had faithfully reconstructed Honmaru Palace—including spaces such as Jorakuden Hall and Yudono Shoin—using surviving prewar plans, photographs, measurements, and wall paintings. In other words, Nagoya Castle offers more than just a castle keep; you can also visit the shogun's residence. Once I learned that, I was determined to go.
Honmaru Palace was what I looked forward to most, and it was every bit as breathtaking as I expected. From the entrance and Omote Shoin to Jorakuden Hall, there was a succession of gold-leaf wall paintings, carved transoms, decorative metalwork, and elaborately designed ceilings. It was so lavish that my neck started to ache from constantly looking up. I could also hear other visitors gasping in amazement.
Yudono Shoin was equally fascinating. This was the shogun's private bathing and relaxation area. Rather than a bathtub, it featured a steam bath. The craftsmanship of the woodwork was exquisite, and even the bathing area had the refinement expected of a facility reserved for the shogun.
Because the palace contains almost no furniture or household items, some rooms can look similar, making it difficult to immediately imagine how they were used. However, by closely observing differences in floor height, the subjects of the wall paintings, ceilings, transoms, and seating arrangements, you can still see how each space reflected status and hierarchy.
If time allows, I highly recommend visiting Nagoya Castle and the Tokugawa Art Museum together. Honmaru Palace showcases the architectural spaces and formal order of the samurai class, while the museum preserves armor, tea utensils, paintings, calligraphy, and everyday objects from the Owari Tokugawa family. Together, they provide a much clearer understanding of daimyo culture and daily life at the time.
I used to have low expectations for Nagoya Castle, but now I feel that simply being able to walk through such a meticulously reconstructed palace makes the visit worthwhile—even without access to the castle keep.

Museum Meiji Mura is much larger than I expected. I strongly recommend arriving right when it opens, or it will be difficult to explore everything thoroughly in one day. I arrived after 11:00 a.m. Even with the village bus saving me some walking, I only managed a quick look around three of the five districts and never reached the other two.

The museum preserves a huge collection of Meiji-era buildings, including churches, schools, hospitals, prisons, and the main entrance hall of the Imperial Hotel. Every building is worth exploring in detail. If you enjoy modern architecture, history, or photography, even a full day may not be enough.

You will also need to choose your visit date carefully. Weekends generally offer more activities, dining options, and transportation, making them better for riding the steam train or Kyoto streetcar. Weekdays are quieter and ideal for taking your time, but some restaurants and facilities may be closed. I had hoped to enjoy dessert inside the Imperial Hotel, but the tearoom happened to be closed that day. Be sure to check the hours for any restaurants and transportation you want to use before visiting.

I wore a Taisho-era-inspired kimono that blended Japanese and Western styles. Staff members complimented me from the moment I reached the ticket booth, which made getting up early to change completely worthwhile. Walking among the historic buildings in vintage clothing truly felt like stepping back in time. If you do not have your own outfit, I highly recommend the museum’s paid costume experience.

Meiji Mura is somewhat remote, so pay attention to transportation for the return trip. Evening departures can get crowded, and each form of transportation within the museum has its own last departure time. If you plan to stay until closing, calculate how long it will take to return from the far end of the grounds to the exit.

Overall, Meiji Mura is much more than a collection of old buildings. It is an incredibly rich open-air museum. One day is barely enough if you only want to see the major buildings. If you want to explore at a relaxed pace, take photos, ride the trains, dress up, and enjoy a meal, even two days might not be enough.

Okayama Momotaro Airport is not very large, but the layout is easy to navigate. The airport buses to and from Okayama Station and Kurashiki are also straightforward. Buses heading toward Okayama may adjust their departure times depending on how quickly international passengers clear customs. On the return trip from Okayama Station, buses may leave early once they are full. Overall, the transportation arrangements are more traveler-friendly than I expected.

Most of the airport’s dining and shopping options are located before security. The second floor has restaurants, cafés, capsule toy machines, and souvenir shops. Restaurant prices are quite reasonable, and the selection of Okayama souvenirs is better than at the duty-free store in the departure lounge. Most importantly, the capsule toy machines are dangerously tempting—I could not resist spending all my spare change! Once inside the international departure lounge, there are very few shops or facilities and no full-service restaurant. I recommend eating, buying souvenirs, and getting drinking water before going through security.

Although this is a regional airport, the customs and baggage inspections are quite strict—even stricter than at some major airports. Do not cut it too close for your return flight. For international departures, arriving about 2.5 hours early is best. One unusual feature is that checked baggage must go through an X-ray inspection before check-in, which can really slow things down.

Overall, Okayama Momotaro Airport is not a place for extensive shopping, but it is easy to navigate, close to the city, and very convenient as a gateway to Okayama, Kurashiki, and western Japan. As long as you eat and shop before security and allow enough time for inspections, it is a genuinely great airport.

Osu Shopping Street blends vintage clothing shops, traditional temples, long-established stores, secondhand kimono, subculture, international cuisine, and everyday local life. Alongside tourist-oriented businesses, there are supermarkets and food stores used by residents. What surprised me most was the number of shops selling secondhand kimono, hakama, and vintage clothing. It’s perfect for anyone who enjoys taking their time hunting for unique retro finds. Some of the vintage clothing isn’t cheap, but the pieces are genuinely beautiful, and browsing alone is fun.

Along the way, you can grab a soy sauce-glazed grilled dango from Shinsuzume Honten on Niomon Street. The savory soy sauce and charcoal-grilled aroma make it a great snack while exploring. If you arrive early, you can also have breakfast at the old-school café Hayashi Coffee Il Fiore, across from Osu Kannon Temple. I especially love their scrambled eggs.

Overall, Osu Shopping Street offers a great mix of tourism, local life, and treasure hunting, plus a few attractions to explore. I’d recommend setting aside an entire afternoon. It’s just as enjoyable to browse as the shopping street near Senso-ji.